It’s coming together.
So I decided to go with 1.75″ 16 gauge mandrel bent steel pipe and 1/4″ sheet metal for my new MPFI intake manifold.
The plenum is a little over 3 liters displacement. The runners are within my desired range of 9-13″. This should provide a torque range of 3-6k rpm.
The fitment is pretty close, but I can adjust the location of my brake proportioning valve. The intake elbow needs to be addressed, I think a silicone coupler will make quick work of that.
Then there is the tri y header I’m making.
With all this cutting, something had to break.
I wired up the headlights with a standard 4pin Molex desktop pc power connector. It is pinned: ground, ground, low, high.
I also ported the hell out of an exhaust manifold that I welded a t3/t4 flange onto. I ported through it in fact.
A lot of material was removed. It is a lot smoother transition now.
So after looking into the mass of ideas from OEM and aftermarket intake manifolds, I’ve decided on a design.
It’s a long runner, fairly large plenum, and big throttle design.
Here is the preliminary layout.
The long tubes need about 3″ cut off the length, then a slash cut on the top. The injectors will be at an angle toward the firewall, they shouldn’t interfere with the heater hoses. I’ll only be able to use the shorty injectors from the looks of it. Good thing I have those, instead of the tall ND/Rochester style.
I’m going to attempt at drawing the whole thing in cad first.
I laid some primer down in the engine bay, and on the louvers. The engine bay, then got a coat of Bahama blue (gm color), because it comes closest to the “bright blue” used by mitsu/chrysler.
I ordered parts for actual performance stuff, so I’ll take a break on body junk. But I think this arrow might be getting the jet package. Well, a DIY version of it.
The baffle that I’m installing will help regulate the oil from getting sloshed back in the pan on acceleration. It will allow the oil to flow back to the front, or back to the lowest point, with no real change. I also installed the turbo drain pipe in the pan. I didn’t have enough room to just use a compression type port hole, so I welded it on, inside and out. This is Mitsubishi Japanese steel! None of that “American sheet metal”.
I installed a supplementary trash magnet as well. You can see it through the drain hole so it can be checked easily during an oil change. The drain plug also is magnetic. The extra is a rare earth magnet from the inside of a hard drive.
I started mocking up an exhaust manifold. I planned to do a tri-y design, but I don’t think that will work out as I wanted to put a twin scroll flange on it so I could install a turbo after the motor is broke in and tuned non-turbo. I think I’ll just make a basic long tube header. I’ll do that once the engine is installed.
I sprayed the lower section of the engine bay with bedliner. The end result will be two-tone. I found a paint the matches the stock “bright blue” pretty well.
Adam bought a house and was real excited that prohibition ended back in 33. So we celebrated!
I got the front cover and water pump installed.
The next step was the head.
That went on pretty smooth. Iused the same arp ultra torque, on the threads and on the shoulders of the head bolts. After assembling, everything rotated smoothly. You can hear the cylinders breathing.
Then I had to check my louvers fitment.
They will look nice. I need to make the side louvers match.