Yay! I finally got a newer car. It’s a 2011 Honda CR-Z hybrid. It’s a 2 seater, so I only get to bring one companion on trips, which sounds fine with me. But there’s a good deal of cargo space inside. I bought it from my buddy, so he was nice enough to leave his system in it, which is 2x jlaudio 12″ subs, on a small amp. It’s small, it’s cute, it’s agile. I like it.
So the arrow still had “test lights” in. That is, 35w low on the driver side, and high on the passenger side, a 100w high on the driver side and a 55w low on the passenger side as if that’s not confusing enough. So now it’s running 55w low hids, and 100w Hella bulbs on highs. I had already installed high amp relays in anticipation of going hid.
It’s really hard to capture the cutoff on a fence on uneven ground.
The built gauge not matching was driving me nuts, and the wood grain just didn’t look right. So I got all matching gauges, and coated the dash with bed liner. I think it came out nice.
The gauges are; exhaust gas temperature, boost/vacuum, rpm, volts, and air fuel ratio. Some day I’ll address the actual dash pad.
The arrows dash was in need of some help. The digital gauges were to bright, the boost gauge read -14 no matter what.
I pulled it out and ordered some different gauges.
Now there is room for five gauges. The fifth hole is there, I just need to cut out the wood grain peel and stick cabinet lament.
I also replaced the radiator with an oem style copper/brass one.
Not much. Actually, not much, so the Comanche is drivetrain less, and the purple jeep is about to be, and the broke jeep is just, broke. In order to get the arrow out of the garage, something has to move. So the arrow snuck out carefully with the aid of a jack.
I’m running eight pounds of boost, on the stock 2L block, crank and rods, with new pistons, a non jet valve head, conquest cam, and Megasquirt throttle body injection. It runs well. The new radiator is on the way. Along with new gauges because the bright blue digital ones overtake the road at night.http://ilostmymind.com/wordp/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/video0023.3gp
The above was filmed with a potato for informational purposes.
So the 5.9L is coming together, and I’ve got the mounts ready to be installed in the mj chassis. I need to get rid of its old drivetrain so it’s out of my way.
But the engine is assembled, I need to change the transmission filter, but otherwise it’s ready to line up in the mj chassis.
So the Comanche needs some dissembling before it gets to a good point, so that’s what this weekend was made up of.
I have to take all the suspension/axles off to put on the scrap zj.
The front was challenging.
I had to cut/grind the upper control arm bolt off.
But it came free.
The rear was very simple, but I did decide to cut off every brake line. It’ll make sense later. Longer lines and what not. Ford parts and junk.
Had to cut off the u bolts. With a torch.
And then I isolated the engine harness from the engine bay body harness. Because a 5.2L swap makes sense.
Then we went fishing.
With 50s and sunny, February is starting to feel like spring! But since this is Michigan, it could be winter tomorrow, so seize the day!
Got the arrow all aired out, so I could rearrange the garage so I have room to walk and tear open the 5.9L for the jeep.
That went pretty smooth. Until an intake manifold bolt broke off in the head. But whatever, I’ve got the technology to get that out.
Looks like the crank has been turned before. I didn’t get to checking the bore yet.
So I had a clunk coming from the front end that went away after I greased all the tie rod ends. Then it came back. I narrowed it down to the Pitman arm tie rod. Thanks to Orly’s, the clunk is now gone. I figured since I got 33s for the jeep, it should have properly working steering.
The wheels are terrible. I’ll get the soft eights back on there asap. They have a better offset as well as looking better.