The Eclipse got some intercooler pipes this weekend. I dug through the piping bin and came up with some decent piping. There’s a few more couplers than I’d like, but it’ll work.
Disregard the yellow in the headlight, that’s from the garage lighting. I went with the crushed 1g blow off valve. It goes 1.75″ turbo outlet, 2.25″ intercooler inlet, 2.5″ intercooler outlet, to 2.25″ bend in the wheel well, up to 2.75″ throttle body.
I’m waiting on the GM maf and translator to come in before I can go any farther with that.
So after a trip to Kentucky over the weekend, I came home to a few parts that I was waiting for. Timing belt set, water pump, injectors, cam sensor, and other little bits. So I had to get started. I got started around 8 or 9pm, and quit around 12:30. I didn’t make as much progress as I hoped, because I got sidetracked swapping wheels from the cr-z to the eclipse, and cleaning some parts.
I picked up a winter beater. It’s a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX automatic. It’s got about 160k on it, but the trans was rebuilt in 2012 according to the receipts.
When I picked it up, it had no timing belt on it. I like it’s ridiculous paint job. I got it cheap, and it needs quite a bit of work. But it’s pretty straight. The strut towers have a couple spots of rust starting, but I’m planning to get in there before winter. It came with a 16g and 3inch exhaust. I put a front mount on it already, it’s just a generic 2.5 in/out, but it fits well.
From the looks of the pistons, I think it crashed the valves at some point. I had a spare 2g head, for the cam sensor mount, but it needed cleaned.
It looks like the stock 2g auto cams are a little lame, so I put some 1g manual cams in it. The previous owner did a bit of spray painting under the hood, so that will need cleaned up a bit. I started with the intake manifold, I had a spare 2g intake manifold and 1g na throttle body (2.75″), so that’ll go on it.
So far the build sheet is:
•7 Bolt block
•7 Bolt head with stainless valves
•1g manual cams
•1g na throttle body
•2.5″ ic piping
• front mount ic 2.5 in/out
•1g crushed bov
•550cc fuel injectors
• adjustable fuel pressure regulator
•450lph walbro fuel pump
If I have any trans problems, I’ve got a fully built IPT trans with torque converter and 6bolt adapter, if I need to go that route.
The Colt is getting closer, to the ground, and to being done. The rear is 3″ lower now, with about 2″ cut out of the body.
Just walking around it, it’s a significant drop.
I cut the floor out of the trunk and put in an aluminum sheet metal sump, and bought an aluminum fuel cell. The sumped gas tank wound up having multiple holes IN THE TOP of it. What the hell?!?!
So just to make my life easier, I decided now is the time to megasquirt it. With a Walbro 255, 2x 1250cc injectors, and ms1extra cpu, this should be pretty reliable. I’m using the 36-1 trigger wheel that I used on the Arrow. In fact, I’m using the non turbo tune from the arrow.
This time, I’m pit crew.
It wound up to be a beautiful weekend. The weather forecast said chances of rain all weekend, but all we got was sunshine and wind.
I decided to sump the tank in the Colt.
Just from sloshing around the tank, this works way better than the tapped drain plug hole. I put the sump atty the lowest point in the tank, which happens to be the stock pickup tube location, also, centered in the baffles. I tapped it for 3/8 npt, and used a 3/8 barb. That should be fine if I want to go efi later. At Gingerman, even with ~4 gallons, it was starving for fuel around the corners. This should help. With only a gallon in it, even sloshing it, it still flowed with just gravity.
Also, the cr-z axle rusted pretty bad, making it weak, and snapped.
On the 13th, I went to Gingerman Raceway in South Haven, MI to drive the Colt. It did pretty well with the new suspension and repairs/upgrades. For some reason my phone wasn’t picking up lap times, but I got some video with the dash camera and a GoPro inside. It was a lot of fun!
It still needs to go lower, but it’s handling a lot better.
I installed MR2 strut inserts in the front, dropping it 1.75″ in the front. I put the only shocks I could find in the rear, getting rid of the bouncy feeling. All new pads, rotors, shoes for the brakes, plus some venting for the rotors.
I also installed a pair of BMW e36 (?) camber plates in the front. I had to drill holes in the strut tower and oversize the sleeve in the hat for the mr2 struts, but they’re in and functioning.
The Colt weighs 2,180Lbs
The whole rig weighs 14,100Lbs. She’s heavy.
Here’s the video of a couple sessions.
The 1974 Dodge Colt made its debut run at Gingerman Raceway in South Haven, Mi. The event was called Tracknight in America, presented by tirerack.com, koni shocks and hagerty insurance. It’s an SCCA sanctioned event. I ran in the novice group, having never driven on a track before. It was a fun experience. The car was pretty sketchy. The brakes were good for the first two rounds, but the last two rounds, they were on or off, no in between. The new southbend clutch performed excellent. The motor, the beat ass old 2.0L I swapped in the morning of, worked great. The old carburetor was a little rich, but not horrible.Here’s the wet run.I got it to the dyno in 05/19/2019
Last week was One Lap Of America. It started at the Tire Rack in South Bend, IN and ended there a week later.
After One Lap last week, I started getting things going on the Colt.
I got the rest of the engine bay wired up, and got the gauges and switch panel wired in. For some reason, the front running lights don’t work, but that’s not a huge deal. I had to switch out the fuel pump because it just randomly stopped working. But tested fine out of the car afterwards.
I finally started working on the 74 Dodge Colt. The brake master cylinder was trashed. The rear resivour was full of junk, pushing no fluid. After a new master cylinder, and bleeding all the crap out of the lines, I’ve got rear brakes! The front driver side, was the only working brake before. The front lines had so much junk in them that I’m surprised they worked at all.
Next up, the engine and clutch.
The old motor came out pretty easily, no real hassle. The clutch doesn’t look bad, but it’s easier to do it now. I took the pressure plate and clutch disk to South Bend Clutch. They built me a new disk with an eclipse center hub (heavy duty springs) with a full face copper flywheel side, and a composite pressure plate side. They rebuilt the pressure plate, it has 1070lbs of pressure now, about a 15% gain. This should be enough for road racing a 4 cylinder. The car seems pretty light weight. I’ll get it weighed soon.
The arrows old motor got all freshened up. I cleaned up the Solex carb and got the points distributor installed. I decided to see how a samurais alternator fits, and it seems to fit well. It’s smaller and lighter, with higher output, so it seems like a good idea.
The new motor didn’t put up much fight going in. It’s been a little while since I’ve aligned a clutch, so I had to shake the shit out of it to get it lined up.
With new motor and transmission mounts, it should feel pretty decent. The radiator still needs a fitting welded on, and I’ve got some electrical to sort out, but so far so good.